I use this club for chipping around the green, blasting out of a fairway bunker and off the tee on those 210+ par 3s. The longest iron that I carry is a 4 iron and I don’t use it much!

It is a very good club..I love it..It was not described as well as the Callaway Fairway Rescue Club.This club was well used,but still works very good

Not a lot of extra features but the basics are all there to put some thunder in your car. Have not run it that long but seems to work nice so far. I don’t care for the trim covers, I just don’t like parts to get lost on an amp and they make it harder to adjust it in the car from the top. But that is just a detail issue. I wish they would have made it look finished if they were not on it. With some mountings you can get to the controls easily though; like from the end.

Class D technology is nice as it takes less power for the watts it puts out, and makes less heat. I like the basic good looks of the unit, terminals work well and are sturdy, and have not found any negatives with the amp aside from my preference on trim panels. The way it is made it seems fairly resistant to cosmetic damage also, no shiny stuff to easily scratch. I think it has a built in subsonic as I recall, but you may want to be careful if you port a box to higher frequency with a low wattage sub as it will unload it. I would say its greatest strength is the small size and the fact that it seems to work pretty good with clean sound and strong output, plus the basic features to get the job done.

IMO in this price range it is great offering with lots of mounting options. You might have to get another MRP for your high amp because this might look funny being smaller than many existing class AB amps, if you care. But that is the way of more efficient class D technology. It is a more difficult technology to use full range, but odds are they will become popular some day. I have no way to measure it other than comparing to many other amps I have used, but it seems to be up to its output ratings and the sound is great. If you want fancy lights and chrome, or lots of control options like a variable subsonic then it may not work out for you. This is a great set it and forget it amp that takes up little room.

Ever wonder what that GPS control panel really does? Well, wonder no more…

Windows Mobile 5 introduced a new feature called the GPS Intermediate Driver which allows multiple apps to share one GPS device. In the past, if one app had the GPS COM port open, no other app could use it. But the Intermediate Driver creates a virtual COM port that multiplexes the real GPS port, and can handle multiple client apps simultaneously.

Windows Mobile 5 also introduced a GPS control panel to allow you to configure the Intermediate Driver. The control panel lets you set the Hardware Port, which is the real port the GPS device is actually on, and the Program Port, which is the virtual COM port the Intermediate Driver exposes. It is called the Program Port because it is the COM port that GPS programs talk to. (They no longer talk directly to the Hardware Port, so it can be shared.)

Unfortunately, there are two complications. First, only Pocket PC has this control panel. Smartphone does not, which makes the GPS Intermediate Driver unusable on Smartphone. We hope to announce a solution to this very soon. Second, some Pocket PC OEMs hid the GPS control panel. However, it can be unhidden by going into the registry and deleting any “Redirect” or “Hide” keys under HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\ControlPanel\GPS Settings.

The Program Port can be any unused COM port. But you may be wondering how you know what the Hardware Port is. Well, if your device has a built-in GPS, then it is on a fixed port, and you need to figure out what that port number is. There are any number of ways to do this; I usually just do a web search on live.com for the model name, “port”, and “GPS”.

If you have a Bluetooth GPS, you need to set up the Hardware Port yourself (regardless of whether you are using the Intermediate Driver or not). Since this process can be a bit confusing, here are the step-by-step instructions:

For Smartphone:

Start/Settings/Connections/Bluetooth.

Make sure Bluetooth is set to “On”.

Menu/Devices

Menu/New

Select your GPS device from the list and press Next.

Enter the passkey for the Bluetooth GPS. For example, 12345678.

Next

You should get a message box saying “Your Smartphone has connected”.

OK

Next

Check the “Serial port” checkbox.

Done

Done

Menu/COM Ports

Select your GPS.

Menu/New Outgoing Port.

Select your device and press Select.

You will see a COM port that has been chosen for your GPS. For example, COM6.

Done

Done

Done

Now your GPS is set up on COM6. Start your GPS app and configure it to use COM6.

For Pocket PC:

Start/Settings/Connnections/Bluetooth

Check the “Turn on Bluetooth” checkbox.

Press the Device tab.

Press “Add new device…”

select your GPS device and press Next.

Check the “Serial Port” checkbox and press Finish.

Press the COM Ports tab.

Press “New outgoing port…”

Select your device and press Next.

You will see a COM port that has been chosen for your GPS. For example, COM0.

Press Finish.

Now your GPS is set up on COM0. If you do not want to use the Intermediate Driver to share the GPS port, just start your GPS app and configure it to use COM0. If you do want to use the Intermediate Driver:

Start/Settings/System/GPS. (If you do not see GPS listed, see the registry hack above.)

Set the “GPS Program Port” to any unused COM port, for example, COM9.

Press the Hardware tab.

Set the Hardware Port to COM0.

Set the baud rate to the baud rate of your Bluetooth GPS (usually 4800, or 9600).

Press OK.

Start your GPS app and configure it to use COM9.

Packing & Shipping of Valued Electronic Items

In my experience in recent years on EBay, I have never seen so many sellers / people who just don’t know how to pack! I have heard more horror stories about EBay items arriving broken and the buyer being a little more then ticked off!

Lets discuss packing materials for a moment. FIRST OFF: Don’t pack in paper! Paper just doesn’t provide enough cushioning to pack anything and your asking for trouble from the start by using newspaper. Any item, be it a heavy radio transceiver or amplifier needs to be packed tight in its carton. That is to say: IT CAN’T MOVE AROUND. If the packing breaks loose and the item shifts, it will shift around in the box the entire trip form point A-to-point-B. The antique, radio or amplifier needs to be COMPLETELY WRAPPED IN SEVERAL LAYERS OF BUBBLE WRAP first. I usually wrap amateur gear in plastic to protect the paint finish, then I wrap it in several layers of bubble wrap. If you can’t find plastic to wrap your radio in, go to one of the large hardware department stores and get some from their garden department. It’s usually free for packing soil in the garden department.

This is key. Once the radio, amplifier, antique or glass item is packed put it in a box that it fits tightly (Again so it doesn’t shift) Then you need to find a bigger box to put it into. YES DOUBLE BOX. And when I say double box, that doesn’t mean another box that just fits snug around the inner box. THE UNITED PARCEL STANDARDS FOR PACKING IS BASICALLY THIS…. Pack your item in the first box tightly with enough packing so it doesn’t move. Then pack that box into a second box with at least one full inch of peanuts or packing material around the inner box.

[-1?–[Radio]–1?-]

I repeat ONE FULL INCH OF PACKING MATERIAL SUCH AS PEANUTS FULLY AROUND THE INNER BOX. Then tape the HELL out of the box! The reason you need to tape the box up extremely well, is that it take only one small tear or leak in the outer compartment for all the peanuts to leak out. I’ve seen it happen even by professional packed items from STAPLES here in the states. The tape came loose, the peanuts all leaked out and a computer bounced around in an empty box from California to the North Carolina in an empty box!
Finally a rule of thumb: Always Double box and wrap the piece of equipment first preferably in bubble wrap. Then use one inch of packing material as a MIMIMUM around inner box. It’s that simple, but getting people to do it is almost impossible. It can take 30 minutes to an hour to pack a box like this correctly. If you don’t follow these guidelines for packing your item is guranteed to arrive on the opposite end either smashed, dented or some way damaged and unusable. If you follow these instructions exactly I can just about guarantee you will never have a broken china, antique, radio, stereo or amplifier on the other end.

One last thing: When shipping electronics items that have knobs that stick out beyond the front panel, remove that knob and put in a safe place inside the box. For instance when packing amateur radio transceivers type FT-101, FV-101B VFO, FL-101, FR-101, FT-620B, FT-200 or Tempo One transceiver, that is any item with the spinner type knob on front of the VFO. Remove the spinner knob…. DON?T LOSE it like some people I know have done. Put it in a plastic bag and tape it inside the rig so it doesn’t get lost. If the shipper drops a Stereo or radio transceiver like this on its face with the spinner in place, all the force of the fall will go directly into the front of the knob, the Jackson ball drive and VFO and front panel. Just do it, remove those big knobs, especially if it has a spinner knob attached that sticks out well beyond the front panel, pack it away inside the rig. Even better packing jobs, you will see people remove the tubes in the case of large heavy amplifier and ship the tubes separately. Or in the least it?s wise to pull all the tubes in older equipment and wrap them individually and put them back under the bonnet. If you?re too tired or lazy to do this (Like I am at times) then in the least stuff the stereo, radio transceiver or any piece of electonic equipment where an item may come loose with a styrofoam packing material or at least newspaper (newspaper is ok inside the equipment.) If you don’t secure the componets internally a tube might just bounce out of its socket, but it won?t go very far if you have some kind of packing inside the gear. It will remain snug in the paper inside of the equipment.

I know I got carried away here, but I ship electronics and ceramic items all the time. If I don’t spend an hour wrapping an expensive radio transcevier, I am not convinced it’s gong to get there in one piece. Lastly these are not all my suggestions. UPS says double box with 1? peanuts around the inside of equipment, then put the box inside another box with 1? of packing around the inside box.

Again [-1?–[Radio]–1?-] these are the requirements as specified by United Parcel Service here in the U.S.A. (Brown)

What can Brown do for you is their motto!

If you don’t pack they way I’m telling you Brown will smash your equipment! That’s what they can do for you.

This works for almost anything you ship, dishes, china, pottery, not just electronic equipment. You may pay a wee bit more in shipping charges but you won?t loose an irreplaceable item or piece of equipment.

Best Regards
W4CLM

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Hand and arm signals only work when you see, and understand the signal, and have time to react. Communicators work even around blind curves, and cut out the mystery of the unknown hand-signal.

All motorcycle communicator radios are based off the Family Radio System FRS, except the option on the Gold Wing, which has CB. With FRS radios, you can communicate with anyone in range, and on the same channel and sub-channel. You could use your motorcycle radio to speak with a handheld radio in a trail vehicle or in the pits at the track.

Chatterbox makes several radios that have various features:

1. Driver to Passenger intercom. This just an intercom system from the driver to passenger on the motorcycle. Some of these intercoms have inputs for radio. Nonetheless, an intercom system can not be used to talk from one driver of one motorcycle to another driver of another motorcycle. Average cost $50 and up, depending on inputs and if it has a built-in radio.
2. HJC-FRS: This unit is the least expensive Driver to Driver communicator. It can be used as an intercom with the purchase of a passenger headset. It has a reported range of up to 2 miles. These do not have many channels to operate on; most do not have any subchannels, which is not a big deal if you’re not in a congested area where many people use the FRS radios. Subchannels are handy when attending big biker events or on track days when many users are on the same frequencies. This unit can usually be purchased for approx. $150
3. FRSx2: This is an investment of approx. $230, but since I have purchased my 2 sets, I don’t think I’ll ever ride without a communicator. My wife and I can ride seperate bikes, and talk to eachother up to a reported 2 mile range. We don’t normally get further than 2 blocks apart from eachother. With this radio, you get intercom with a passenger (if you wish) and communications between driver to driver or your passenger to the anyone (driver or pass) on another FRS. There is an input jack for Cell phones so you can answer your calls without taking off your helmet (not recommended for use while riding) OR use this jack with any audio alert system on radar detectors. An audio jack allows you to input a AM/FM/CD/MP3 radio of your choice. The audio cord is $10. You listen to your music, and when someone talks to you, your music is muted so you can hear them; they do not hear your music. The only person that can hear your music is your passenger that has a headset plugged directly into your communicator. Passenger headsets are normally $25 to $35. The last plug is for an optional (included) Push To Talk (PTT) button, in case you don’t want to use the Voice Activated (VOX) feature. When using VOX in a noisy environment, such as on a motorcycle with loud exhaust, your mic will turn on when you don’t want it to. The radio has a sensitivity dial to help adjust the microphone sensitivity.
4. FRSx1 has the same features as the x2 except it has a reported range of up to 5 miles. These units vary in price, but average to be $270 and up.

Mounting: These radios can be mounted to the side of the helmet or to the motorcycle. If you use it for passengers a lot, you may want to mount the radio in a tankbag or saddlebag. Passengers that move around a lot or tend to get off the motorcycle fast without thinking may forget that you have the radio on the side of your helmet, and their cords are pulling at your head. If you use the optional 12volt cord input, audio input, and passenger headset input, you may want to mount the radio also, because there will be a lot of wires running to your helmet, vs just one wire for your helmet extension.

Rechargeable batteries: rechargeable batteries in the radio set is nice, as long as you remember to charge it before use. Unfortunately, you can’t just pop out the rechargeable battery, and place a standard AA or AA set in. I purchased the 12volt cords, cut off the battery connector ends, and added a SAE plug that plugs into my trickle charger connector. I also made a cord that has a cigarette lighter male end, so I can plug the radios into the truck to recharge. Since I have a 12v auxillary port in my camper, I can also recharge them there.

headsets: Most of Chatterbox’s headsets are the new Noise Cancelling type. Make sure you check to see if you are getting the Noise Cancelling type. I’ve never listened through the old style, so I don’t know if there is a noticeable difference. There are also 2 types of mountings for the headsets: Open Faced and Closed faced helmet styles. Lots of people report that they get the open faced style, and use the mic on the boom to adjust it close to their mouth. I have a Full faced helmet, and I use the closed faced helmet headset. If you can mount the mic close enough to your mouth that you can stick your tongue on the mic, a closed faced style is best for you. Otherwise, you may need the mic boom to get the mic to your mouth. The speakers fit inside the ear pockets of my helmet, and the cords were hidden in the edge lining of the helmet. It takes some time to position the cords out of sight, but it’s worth the effort. No cutting, just tucking the cords between the many layers of styafoam and cloth helmet liner.

Durability: We don’t intentionally ride in the rain, but we’ve been caught in unforecasted thunderstroms. The radios worked fine in the weather, and have been easy to maintain in the 1 1/2 years I have owned them. I advise to keep the input plugs inserted in the holes when there isn’t an input cable attached. Not only does it keep out rain, but it keeps the plugs clean and provide for a better electrical connection.

Summary: my wife and I used to ride on the motorcycle together for 3 years. When she learned to ride and I bought her a motorcycle, we learned hand and arm signals. In some group rides, riders used hand signals I’ve never seen or heard of. I invested in 2 new Chatterbox FRSx2’s and we can’t imagine ever riding without them. She listens to her music as she drives her bike to work, and I listen to mine as I go to work. In the afternoons, when we meet for dinner, we start talking as soon as we see eachother, or sometimes find eachother over the communicators. Pointing out hazards is much easier now that we don’t have to take our hands off the handlebars to pass signals. When we ride in groups, we all tone to the same frequency (channels) and point out hazards, points of interest, and even communicate when someone has to pull over for anything. No multiple checks in the rear view, and turning around to find out that your buddy only needed to tie his/her shoe.

even if you only purchase an intercom for you and your passenger, you’ll see that it will make a big improvement in your riding experience. No more yelling at eachother going down the highway, and the passenger will appreciate being able to tell you that they need to move to make an adjustment rather than waiting for the next stoplight or rest stop.