I bought these clubs because of their looks but these clubs are easy to hit. I switched the shaft to a true temper regular and have found it improved ball flight for me. I was using Hogan Apex Pros but I really prefer the feel of these clubs but be careful, I had them in my trunk and they dent easily. (forged heads)
I use this club for chipping around the green, blasting out of a fairway bunker and off the tee on those 210+ par 3s. The longest iron that I carry is a 4 iron and I don’t use it much!
It is a very good club..I love it..It was not described as well as the Callaway Fairway Rescue Club.This club was well used,but still works very good
Not a lot of extra features but the basics are all there to put some thunder in your car. Have not run it that long but seems to work nice so far. I don’t care for the trim covers, I just don’t like parts to get lost on an amp and they make it harder to adjust it in the car from the top. But that is just a detail issue. I wish they would have made it look finished if they were not on it. With some mountings you can get to the controls easily though; like from the end.
Class D technology is nice as it takes less power for the watts it puts out, and makes less heat. I like the basic good looks of the unit, terminals work well and are sturdy, and have not found any negatives with the amp aside from my preference on trim panels. The way it is made it seems fairly resistant to cosmetic damage also, no shiny stuff to easily scratch. I think it has a built in subsonic as I recall, but you may want to be careful if you port a box to higher frequency with a low wattage sub as it will unload it. I would say its greatest strength is the small size and the fact that it seems to work pretty good with clean sound and strong output, plus the basic features to get the job done.
IMO in this price range it is great offering with lots of mounting options. You might have to get another MRP for your high amp because this might look funny being smaller than many existing class AB amps, if you care. But that is the way of more efficient class D technology. It is a more difficult technology to use full range, but odds are they will become popular some day. I have no way to measure it other than comparing to many other amps I have used, but it seems to be up to its output ratings and the sound is great. If you want fancy lights and chrome, or lots of control options like a variable subsonic then it may not work out for you. This is a great set it and forget it amp that takes up little room.
Ever wonder what that GPS control panel really does? Well, wonder no more…
Windows Mobile 5 introduced a new feature called the GPS Intermediate Driver which allows multiple apps to share one GPS device. In the past, if one app had the GPS COM port open, no other app could use it. But the Intermediate Driver creates a virtual COM port that multiplexes the real GPS port, and can handle multiple client apps simultaneously.
Windows Mobile 5 also introduced a GPS control panel to allow you to configure the Intermediate Driver. The control panel lets you set the Hardware Port, which is the real port the GPS device is actually on, and the Program Port, which is the virtual COM port the Intermediate Driver exposes. It is called the Program Port because it is the COM port that GPS programs talk to. (They no longer talk directly to the Hardware Port, so it can be shared.)
Unfortunately, there are two complications. First, only Pocket PC has this control panel. Smartphone does not, which makes the GPS Intermediate Driver unusable on Smartphone. We hope to announce a solution to this very soon. Second, some Pocket PC OEMs hid the GPS control panel. However, it can be unhidden by going into the registry and deleting any “Redirect” or “Hide” keys under HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\ControlPanel\GPS Settings.
The Program Port can be any unused COM port. But you may be wondering how you know what the Hardware Port is. Well, if your device has a built-in GPS, then it is on a fixed port, and you need to figure out what that port number is. There are any number of ways to do this; I usually just do a web search on live.com for the model name, “port”, and “GPS”.
If you have a Bluetooth GPS, you need to set up the Hardware Port yourself (regardless of whether you are using the Intermediate Driver or not). Since this process can be a bit confusing, here are the step-by-step instructions:
For Smartphone:
Start/Settings/Connections/Bluetooth.
Make sure Bluetooth is set to “On”.
Menu/Devices
Menu/New
Select your GPS device from the list and press Next.
Enter the passkey for the Bluetooth GPS. For example, 12345678.
Next
You should get a message box saying “Your Smartphone has connected”.
OK
Next
Check the “Serial port” checkbox.
Done
Done
Menu/COM Ports
Select your GPS.
Menu/New Outgoing Port.
Select your device and press Select.
You will see a COM port that has been chosen for your GPS. For example, COM6.
Done
Done
Done
Now your GPS is set up on COM6. Start your GPS app and configure it to use COM6.
For Pocket PC:
Start/Settings/Connnections/Bluetooth
Check the “Turn on Bluetooth” checkbox.
Press the Device tab.
Press “Add new device…”
select your GPS device and press Next.
Check the “Serial Port” checkbox and press Finish.
Press the COM Ports tab.
Press “New outgoing port…”
Select your device and press Next.
You will see a COM port that has been chosen for your GPS. For example, COM0.
Press Finish.
Now your GPS is set up on COM0. If you do not want to use the Intermediate Driver to share the GPS port, just start your GPS app and configure it to use COM0. If you do want to use the Intermediate Driver:
Start/Settings/System/GPS. (If you do not see GPS listed, see the registry hack above.)
Set the “GPS Program Port” to any unused COM port, for example, COM9.
Press the Hardware tab.
Set the Hardware Port to COM0.
Set the baud rate to the baud rate of your Bluetooth GPS (usually 4800, or 9600).
Press OK.
Start your GPS app and configure it to use COM9.
In my experience in recent years on EBay, I have never seen so many sellers / people who just don’t know how to pack! I have heard more horror stories about EBay items arriving broken and the buyer being a little more then ticked off!
Lets discuss packing materials for a moment. FIRST OFF: Don’t pack in paper! Paper just doesn’t provide enough cushioning to pack anything and your asking for trouble from the start by using newspaper. Any item, be it a heavy radio transceiver or amplifier needs to be packed tight in its carton. That is to say: IT CAN’T MOVE AROUND. If the packing breaks loose and the item shifts, it will shift around in the box the entire trip form point A-to-point-B. The antique, radio or amplifier needs to be COMPLETELY WRAPPED IN SEVERAL LAYERS OF BUBBLE WRAP first. I usually wrap amateur gear in plastic to protect the paint finish, then I wrap it in several layers of bubble wrap. If you can’t find plastic to wrap your radio in, go to one of the large hardware department stores and get some from their garden department. It’s usually free for packing soil in the garden department.
This is key. Once the radio, amplifier, antique or glass item is packed put it in a box that it fits tightly (Again so it doesn’t shift) Then you need to find a bigger box to put it into. YES DOUBLE BOX. And when I say double box, that doesn’t mean another box that just fits snug around the inner box. THE UNITED PARCEL STANDARDS FOR PACKING IS BASICALLY THIS…. Pack your item in the first box tightly with enough packing so it doesn’t move. Then pack that box into a second box with at least one full inch of peanuts or packing material around the inner box.
[-1?–[Radio]–1?-]
I repeat ONE FULL INCH OF PACKING MATERIAL SUCH AS PEANUTS FULLY AROUND THE INNER BOX. Then tape the HELL out of the box! The reason you need to tape the box up extremely well, is that it take only one small tear or leak in the outer compartment for all the peanuts to leak out. I’ve seen it happen even by professional packed items from STAPLES here in the states. The tape came loose, the peanuts all leaked out and a computer bounced around in an empty box from California to the North Carolina in an empty box!
Finally a rule of thumb: Always Double box and wrap the piece of equipment first preferably in bubble wrap. Then use one inch of packing material as a MIMIMUM around inner box. It’s that simple, but getting people to do it is almost impossible. It can take 30 minutes to an hour to pack a box like this correctly. If you don’t follow these guidelines for packing your item is guranteed to arrive on the opposite end either smashed, dented or some way damaged and unusable. If you follow these instructions exactly I can just about guarantee you will never have a broken china, antique, radio, stereo or amplifier on the other end.
One last thing: When shipping electronics items that have knobs that stick out beyond the front panel, remove that knob and put in a safe place inside the box. For instance when packing amateur radio transceivers type FT-101, FV-101B VFO, FL-101, FR-101, FT-620B, FT-200 or Tempo One transceiver, that is any item with the spinner type knob on front of the VFO. Remove the spinner knob…. DON?T LOSE it like some people I know have done. Put it in a plastic bag and tape it inside the rig so it doesn’t get lost. If the shipper drops a Stereo or radio transceiver like this on its face with the spinner in place, all the force of the fall will go directly into the front of the knob, the Jackson ball drive and VFO and front panel. Just do it, remove those big knobs, especially if it has a spinner knob attached that sticks out well beyond the front panel, pack it away inside the rig. Even better packing jobs, you will see people remove the tubes in the case of large heavy amplifier and ship the tubes separately. Or in the least it?s wise to pull all the tubes in older equipment and wrap them individually and put them back under the bonnet. If you?re too tired or lazy to do this (Like I am at times) then in the least stuff the stereo, radio transceiver or any piece of electonic equipment where an item may come loose with a styrofoam packing material or at least newspaper (newspaper is ok inside the equipment.) If you don’t secure the componets internally a tube might just bounce out of its socket, but it won?t go very far if you have some kind of packing inside the gear. It will remain snug in the paper inside of the equipment.
I know I got carried away here, but I ship electronics and ceramic items all the time. If I don’t spend an hour wrapping an expensive radio transcevier, I am not convinced it’s gong to get there in one piece. Lastly these are not all my suggestions. UPS says double box with 1? peanuts around the inside of equipment, then put the box inside another box with 1? of packing around the inside box.
This works for almost anything you ship, dishes, china, pottery, not just electronic equipment. You may pay a wee bit more in shipping charges but you won?t loose an irreplaceable item or piece of equipment.
Best Regards
W4CLM
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