Arggggghhhh or “when to run away from an ingredient”
Health & Beauty women February 19th, 2008
By Hannah Sivak, PhD
Skin Actives Scientific LLC
If there is something I dislike is fear mongering. There have
always been fear mongers, people who scare other people to make money or
just for fun. These days, the category is been enriched daily with the
help of the Internet: anybody can start a website with a few dollars and
can start spreading false rumors and plain lies. These people try to
convince others that we are being poisoned by big companies aided by
complicit government agencies, and conspiracy plots are everywhere.
Sunblock will poison you, preservatives used in food and cosmetics
poison the environment and this is why we are living much shorter lives
and are sicker than our forebears. Except, of course, that this is not
true, and we, in the USA and Europe and other developed countries, are
living healthier and longer lives than ever before.
What we eat and what we use on our skin is safe. But, some companies, in their pursuit of novelty and marketing fluff are
using ingredients that it is silly to use, because their possible
benefits are so small and the risks, however small and theoretical, are
not worth taking.
Ingredients I don’t like: anything containing human (or other mammalian) cells or
tissue extracts. Mammal cells or tissue extracts may
contain viral particles or prions, the agent suspected of causing mad
cow disease.
TNS, for example, is discarded media used to culture human cells. It
may contain some useful growth factors, but will also contain useless
waste products excreted by the cultured cells and there is always the
possibility of presence of viruses and other infectious agents.
Perricone’s “neuropeptides” have no research whatsoever supporting his
claim to be beneficial, but even without any information on their
source, the only “almost legal” source of them can be the thymus of cows
or other mammals. I don’t think we will ever know where those were
obtained from.
The now infamous “eyelash growth factor” used by Jan Marini turned out
to be a prescription medication (please see my guide on the subject).
Other distasteful (but not dangerous) ingredients are those obtained
from species in danger of extinction. For example, “Ocean Actives”
claims that they obtain squalene from the liver of a species of deep sea
shark in danger of extinction. What is the point when you can obtain the
same chemical from corn? Just the novelty value.
We at Skin Actives recognize the value of proteins found in human cells
but don’t want to use any ingredient capable of including infectious
agents. The answer is high tech biochemistry: making perfect imitations
of human proteins in the laboratory. If there are peptides that we want,
make synthetic copies in the laboratory. This way, we ensure that the
actives are safe and we can sleep well at night, without worrying about
risks that are small but unnecessary.
For safe and effective actives, use Skin Actives Scientific products and
those by reputable companies that are not using silly ingrediets “just because”.
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